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Kitchen Beyond
A scullery entrance with a glass door letting light into the back kitchen

Scullery & pantry doors

The door decides whether a scullery works — cavity slider, hinged, pocket, open doorway or full-height hidden door. Clearances, glass vs solid, and the cost of each.

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The door is the detail that makes or breaks a scullery. Choose wrong and a swinging door eats the floor you just built, or an open doorway leaves the mess on show from the dining table. Choose right and the scullery closes off cleanly when you want it to and disappears when you don't. Here are the five options, with the clearances and costs that separate them.

Cavity slider (pocket door)

Our most-recommended option for NZ homes. The door slides into a cavity inside the wall, so no swing steals floor space and the opening sits clean and flush when it's open. It needs a clear stud cavity beside the opening to house the panel, so it suits a new build or a renovation where that wall is being opened up anyway. Mid-range on cost: you pay for the slider hardware and the cavity.

Hinged door

The simplest to fit and the easiest to retrofit, since it needs no wall cavity. The trade-off is the swing — a hinged door needs around 800–900mm of clear floor to open into, which in a small scullery can clash with the fridge or an appliance bench. Works best where the door opens into the main kitchen rather than into the scullery itself. Lower cost than a slider.

Open doorway

No door at all — just a clean opening through to the scullery. It is the cheapest option, keeps the space feeling connected and bright, and is ideal when the scullery is tucked around a corner where the mess isn't visible from the living areas. The catch is obvious: nothing hides the back kitchen when guests are over, so it suits a scullery you keep genuinely tidy.

Full-height hidden door

The most seamless option: a handleless, push-to-open front with the same fronts as the surrounding cabinetry, so the entrance reads as more kitchen until you open it. It is the signature move of a hidden scullery and the one that needs the most precise joinery — the fronts, the grain and the reveals all have to line up exactly. The dearest of the five, because you're paying for the concealment.

Glass vs solid

Solid doors hide the contents completely and blend into the cabinetry — usually what you want for a working scullery. Glass, especially frosted or reeded glass, passes light into a dark back kitchen and keeps the space feeling open while blurring the clutter behind it. Reeded or frosted glass is the middle ground we reach for most: light through, mess softened.

Getting the clearances right

Whichever you choose, leave at least 800–900mm of clear opening so you can walk through with a full tray or basket. For a cavity slider, keep the wall beside the opening free for the panel; for a hinged door, plan the swing so it doesn't foul an appliance. We work the door into the plan from the start — and build it, and the cabinetry around it, in our own Rotorua factory — so it opens the way it should. You'll get a fixed written quote with your chosen option priced in before work starts.

Frequently asked questions

What is the best door for a scullery or pantry?
For most New Zealand homes a cavity slider is the best all-rounder — it closes the scullery off without a swinging door stealing floor space, and it disappears into the wall when open. An open doorway is simplest and cheapest if you don't need to hide the room; a full-height hidden door is the most seamless but the dearest. The right choice comes down to how much floor you have and whether you want the scullery concealed.
How wide should a scullery or pantry doorway be?
Leave at least 800–900mm of clear opening if you want to walk through carrying a tray or a full laundry basket. A standard 760mm door feels tight for a working scullery you pass through constantly. For a cavity slider, remember the wall beside the opening has to be clear to take the sliding panel.
Should a pantry door be glass or solid?
Solid hides the contents and the mess completely, which is usually the point of a scullery — and matches best when you want the door to blend into the cabinetry. Glass, including frosted or reeded glass, lets light through and keeps the space feeling open, and softens a dark back kitchen. Frosted or reeded glass is a nice middle ground: it passes light but blurs the clutter behind it.
What is the difference between a cavity slider and a pocket door?
They're essentially the same idea — a door that slides into a cavity inside the wall rather than swinging out — and in NZ the term cavity slider is the common one. Both need a clear stud cavity beside the opening to house the panel, so they suit a new build or a renovation where that wall is being opened up anyway. A surface-sliding barn-style door avoids the cavity but stays visible on the wall.
How much do scullery doors add to the cost?
An open doorway costs the least — there's no door at all. A hinged door is the next step up, then a cavity slider, which adds the slider hardware and the wall cavity. A full-height hidden door with matched cabinet fronts is the dearest because you're paying for the concealment and the precise joinery to make it vanish. We price the option you choose into a fixed written quote before work starts.

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Kitchen Beyond is where your dream kitchen becomes reality — expert planning, quality craftsmanship and a seamless install, all from our own Rotorua factory.